What are the benefits of an high TPI casing?
The higher is the TPI number, the more flexible and thinner is the casing with less rubber on the same area. Asphalt roughness’s create vibrations and frictions by contact with the tire surface. These micro or macro impacts can be absorbed or transferred by the tire.
It is here that flexibility comes to play: a flexible casing does absorb vibrations by deforming around the irregularities of the road. On the other end a rigid casing transfers the hits to the whole system (rim, spikes, hub, fork, frame…) resulting into vibrations and friction: the given result is a tire with more rolling resistance, less comfort and less grip due to less contact surface with the ground given by lack of deformability.
That means a flexible casing gives:

- MORE SPEED
- MORE CONFORT
- MORE GRIP

Casing material itself heavily influences flexibility and so tire performances: Corespun, which is cotton made and so a bit more delicate, grants more stretchiness and flexibility than Nylon. Vittoria TPI and materials range from:
- 26 to 220 for Nylon casings.
- 220 to 320 for Cotton and Polycotton casings.

320 TPI is a record which Vittoria has achieved thanks to the constant efforts of its Research and Development team, and trough severe testing in racing.
This is the ultimate guarantee of outstanding performance and reliability.

Why a tubular is better than a clincher?
Flexibility. Here it comes the superior performance of a tubular, that with a smoother base structure, without any mechanical link between rim and carcass and a tire surface that is perfectly round, can ensure even more flexibility and shock absorbtion than any other tire, of any level.

What are the benefits of a latex tube?
Latex is a more flexible material than butyl: it extends 7 times more than its original length, butyl only 1,5. This means more flexibility that guarantees more speed and comfort, as explained for the casing, and more puncture protection: the latex layer deforms itself around the external body that penetrates instead of pierce.
The only disadvantage for latex inner tubes lies in poor air retention: latex is more porous and the air leaks. The higher the pressure, the faster the air leaks.
For this reason a tire with a latex tube must be adjusted for inflation pressure before every ride.

Narrow is faster?
Not always narrow means faster, it is true that “narrow is fast” but only if we consider particular conditions of use: perfect slick surface and no vibrations. This situation is not “real” road condition that we find when riding (only best indoor tracks have a perfect surface).
So if we consider the real conditions, we have to consider many factors and the most important is flexibility: first of all casing flexibility, second compound flexibility and than all other tire components flexibility (like puncture resistance).

What is the ideal inflation tire pressure?
It is impossible to make a general recommendation on inflation pressure for a specific bike and rider, the right inflation pressure depends on too many variables.
Frame and wheel material, construction and stiffness of these, weight distribution, asphalt surface, width and material of tires and tubes, weather and temperature, and not least riding style are the most important variables to find which is the right inflation pressure. In this view the following chart is only a starting point to find the proper pressure and it has not to be seen as rigid rule.
For wet or rough roads, decrease by 0.5 bar (7.5 psi). For tubular tires, increase by 0.5 bar (7.5 psi). Minimum indicated pressures can be lowered only in the cases mentioned in the above chart.
The best way to fine tune ideal tire pressures is field testing a variety of different pressures. One method is to use a short criterium style circuit, preferable with a variety of corners. Start with the suggested pressure and ride a lap. Each following lap, lower the pressure by 5psi until you feel the tires start to “wallow” or move a bit. This is your lowest pressure point. Return to the above table pressures and raise 5psi each lap until the tires start to bounce and skip/move across the surface. This is your max pressure. Decrease by 5 psi from here until you feel you have the best pressure for the conditions.
Keep a tire pressure log, including road surface, technicality of the course,weather conditions, tire type, brand, and TPI. Finally, the bike you used and your weight on that day. Over time, this log will become a valuable tool for referencing tire pressures and road conditions in order to optimize your performance when on race day.

How many kilometers could I ride with a tire/tubular?
The durability of a tire/tubular depends from a lot of different factors: the type of tire, the riding style, bicycle and compontent materials, road surface, the inflation pressure, and more. It is really difficult to fix a precise number of kilometers. There are two main criteria however that influence a lot tire wearing: the higher the pressure, the faster it wears out, and the range of the tire, the higher are the performances, the less the tire will last.

How can I determinate when is time to change the tire/tubular?
You can evaluate the tire wear checking its profile: when there is a notable discontinuity (like a step, or edge) between central tread (wearing when you ride on straight) and side tread (wearing in corners) that you can feel when starting to lean for a turn. This is the time to change your tire. It’s also suggested to change the tire in any case the carcass is exposed.

Is there a mounting direction for my tire?
Mounting direction is shown by a little arrow engraved onto tire sidewall. In the case it is not visible for any reason, do follow the tread pattern design: if it design an arrow, that has to run forward, otherwise if the tread pattern itself is specular the tire can be mounted either way.